Real carding for noobs

Tomcat

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So, real...

You thought for a long time, and finally decided to radically change your life and go to real Madrid.
What will you need for this?

In order to start doing real-carding, you need much more than just a desire, aspiration or even money (although many people shout that nothing is needed for this purpose except money-nonsense!).
In addition, in this area, completely different amounts are "walking" than, for example, in Internet carding and clothing stores, and ripaks and just deer and dolboebs posing as mega-VIP sellers (and in fact selling air) are hundreds of times more, and the risks are much greater...

But this is the background...

Now let's move on to what you should not meddle in any topic at all without-theory.

Let's start with the basic concepts of real-time carding:

- White plastic
A plastic "blank" card with a magnetic stripe, can be any color, but the most common one is white (it is easier to put an image on it).It is used for making fake credit cards.
It is divided into 2 types - Hi-Co and Lo-Co.These types differ in the strength of magnetization of the magnetic strip

- Encoder
Device for recording information on the magnetic stripe of the card (price-from $ 400)

- Embosser
Device for card embossment (embossment-squeezing out on the card the number, name of the holder and sometimes exp. date(expiration date)) (price-from $ 1000)

- Tipper
Device for tipping cards (tipping-drawing gold foil on the embossedcharacters) (price-from $ 500)

- Card printer
Printer for printing on plastic cards (price-from$3000)

- Dump
"Impression" (copy) of data recorded on the magnetic stripe of the credit card.
(I won't write about the dump structure-this is already written in detail and clearly in the quote)
Track 1 (IATA)

Track 2 (ABA)

Track 3 (THRIFT-TTS)

So, now let's describe what we should have written on the track. We are interested in the second track-Track 2 (ABA), and what can we see on it?:
It can contain up to 40 characters:
First comes the starting character -%
, then comes PAN - up to 19 digits, in our case, this is the card number.
It includes the card issuer code (IIN: Issuer Identification Number) (up to 6 characters), which in turn consists of:
The Main Industrial Identifier (MII: Major Industry Identifier) (up to 2 characters):

* 0: Reserved for future use by ISO / TC 68.
00: Not for issuing cards
1: Airlines.
2: Airlines and for future use.
3: Travel and entertainment.
4: Bank / Finance.
5: Bank / Finance.
59: Financial organizations that do not fall within the scope of ISO.
6: Banks and merchants.
7: Fuel industry.
8: Telecommunications and for future use.
89: Telecommunications and for watch agencies.
9: Reserved for national use.

Next is the emitter code (II: Issuer Identifier), up to 5 digits, in some cases the length of the INN or its size is written if it goes beyond ISO. If MII is 9, then the first three digits are the country code(which is of no interest to us)

Then there is an individual account number (IAI: Individual Account Identification), up to 12 digits, assigned by the organization that issued the card

Then there is a single digit used to check the number and other information, calculated using the formula: (I'll post the formula later)
Mastercard's PAN consists of no more than 16 characters, while VISA has 13 or 16, including the verification digit.

Then there is a separator, one character - =

It is followed in some cases by the country code(if the PAN starts with 59). It is defined in ISO 3166: 724 for Spain, 840 for the USA, and so on.

Then, in most cases, the card's expiration date is displayed in the YYMM (yearmonth) format.

Then comes the three-character service code, which consists of:

The first digit indicates where you can use the card:

* 0: Reserved for future use.
1: For international use.
2: For international use, with restrictions.
3: Reserved for future use.
4: Reserved for future use.
5: For internal use only, except for pre-agreed agreements.
6: Only for internal use, except for pre-agreed agreements, with restrictions.
7: Not for payment, except for pre-agreed agreements.
8: Reserved for future use.
9: For verification.

The second digit defines the conditions for using/authorizing the card(Authorization processing):

* 0: Transactions are performed according to standard rules.
1: Reserved for future use.
2: The transaction is performed by the emitter and must be online.
3: Reserved for future use.
4: The transaction is carried out by the emitter, must be online, except for pre-agreed agreements.
5: Reserved for future use.
6: Reserved for future use.
7: Reserved for future use.
8: Reserved for future use.
9: Reserved for future use.

The third digit defines the services and conditions of the PIN requirement

* 0: No restrictions, need PIN.
1: No restrictions.
2: Goods and services (not cash).
3: ATM only and need PIN.
4: Only money.
5: Goods and services (not cash) and need a PIN.
6: Unlimited, PIN on demand.
7: Goods and services (not cash) and PIN on demand.
8: Reserved for future use.
9: Reserved for future use.


Then comes the PVV (PIN Verification Value) hash, 5 characters, followed by characters reserved for use by the emitter. And at the end of everything there is a final character - ?

- Types of dumps
There are 2 types of cards-chipped and non-chipped.
The security level of chip cards is an order of magnitude higher than that of cards that have only a magnetic stripe(the chip also contains unique information), respectively, their dumps are also different-they are divided into:
201 - Dumps of chip cards
101 - Dumps of cards without a chip
, respectively, for ral (especially for getting started in this area) we will need exactly 101 dumps.

That's all you need to know to get started.

Now let's move on from theory to practice.

The minimum set that we will need for this is an encoder, an embosser, dumps, and blank cards (already printed, but unembossed cards are fakes.Ideally, it makes sense to make them yourself from white plastic, but as a rule, not everyone has enough money for a card printer at the beginning).

In total, it is not cheap, but with the proper approach, all costs will pay off very quickly.
Of course, there is a cheaper, but at the same time much more dangerous method, but I write about it in the quote:
The topic about real Madrid is empty....Disorder!... :)

I decided at my leisure to write a short article about what real-carding is,
and not in a dry theory,but in practice.

Now the old times cause only a smile -
it all started so crazy that even the most terrible! :)

A group of young people, having heard enough stories about mega-kulhatskers hacking into the accounts
and credits of bourgeois people for the purpose of getting rich, decided to try their hand at it.
All available materials were studied, and all the popular
forums and articles on this topic were searched far and wide at that time...

But the theory quickly gets boring, and over a bottle of beer it was decided to move on to practice.
The money turned out to be quite small, and the prices for equipment were biting (and very much so).
As a result, the money was only enough for the good old msr-206
(for those who are not particularly in the subject-this is an encoder-a device for recording magnetic stripe on plastic cards).

There is an encoder-class! No money-tin....
Gathering our strength, we scraped together a little more-for 3 dumps....

I will immediately note that there was no question of any shopping in Europe at that time, by definition -
firstly, there was no money left at all,
and secondly....yes, they didn't know anything yet, so they decided to go straight to Rashka.

The question arose:what should I write the received dumps for?
You can't go to the store with white plastic,
and there was no money, opportunities, or acquaintances to buy ready-made blanks...
The decision came spontaneously-why not rewrite the existing (i.e. real,salary) card?

Said and done!
A few hours later, the company with happy faces and a VTB-24 card
with a dump from some German bank, rushed to the first shopping center that came across.

The first" victim " was a hypermarket-
a cashier with a gray face and square eyes counted the purchase amount
(something like 30k rubles) and took the card...

The moment of truth has arrived....

After rolling the card, she handed it over without hesitation and handed in the check, asking me to sign it.
It was a triumph! :)
The" terror " of the shopping center continued for another 4 hours -
everything was bought up without much measure-clothes, watches, even jewelry!....

The most interesting thing (the realization of this came much later)-
the card was not blocked after the first couple of rolls, and the most interesting thing is
that none of the cashiers even bothered to check the last 4 digits on the card and the receipt!!!

However, an attempt to continue the banquet for the next day turned out to be a surprise -
with surprise, the cashier of the next shop reported that the card was stolen, and ...
I returned it with the words: "Call the bank, it's probably something wrong there..."

This incident served as a kind of ending to the Action epic,
but it turned into something more, although this is another story! :)

Summing up, I can say the following:carding in Raschke is possible
(and, as you can see, even crazy - based only on the hope of the cashier's inattention)...

It's up to you to decide if the game is worth the candle...
(my personal opinion is NO!)

P. S. The article is written with the strongest hangover...
All the names and events are made up, and there is a Matrix all around :)

So, the sequence of actions:

1) We stock up on equipment
Such things as an encoder and an embosser have long ceased to be in short supply and are sold quite legally and for reasonable money.Use Google and choose a suitable offer :)

2) We order blank cards
(as a rule, the prices for them have a fairly large spread, but the average price is about $ 30-40 per piece).Before the cards arrive, we do something useful (for example, we are looking for a normal dump seller).

3) Buying dumps
As mentioned above, we buy 101 dumps of the desired country (the choice of country depends on where the actual shopping will take place)
Be careful-in the field of selling dumps, there are a lot of ripaks and deer that sell goods with a validity of 20% or lower

4) Generating 1 track
As a rule, most sellers sell only the second dump track, and for a comfortable shopping experience, we also need the first one.
Where can I get it?Generate using the PCKit program is
nothing complicated, enter the first and last name of the person who will go shopping and whose name will be written on the card, as well as the purchased second track and get the generated result.

5) Record the card
We record the first and second tracks on our disc using the program that comes with the msr-206 or any other alternative (for example, TheJerm)

6) Emboss the card
Emboss our blank.You can take a real bank card as a reference embosser and see what to squeeze out and where:)
. Accordingly, the name embossedon the card must match the name in the first track generated by us and the name of the person who will go "shopping", as documents can be sent to confirm the ownership of the card, and it is not very good if this question will take you by surprise...

Well, the card is ready!
You can go shopping! :)

And finally, a few tips:

- Don't work alone!
Real is a topic where you need support in any case-a good and reliable partner(or partners)in all respects

- The choice of suppliers of dumps and blank cards should be approached VERY carefully!
Do not forget-their quality depends not only on the success of the operation, but also on your personal safety

- Never stock up in the same store several times

- In any case of force majeure, keep calm and self-control.
Even if the PIC has revealed that the card was stolen, try to persuade the cashier (seller) to return the card to you (in trading, the main thing is selling, so with a competent approach, you can pass everything off as incomprehensible glitches of the bank and ask for the card supposedly to withdraw cash from an ATM.Just don't forget to ask "put your product on hold and don't take it far away" ;)- 90% of cases can be solved in words! )

Of course, the article is far from complete, many nuances are not sanctified,
but I will try to answer all your questions-ask either in the topic or in the PM.

Good luck with your business!
Take care of yourself!Have a great shopping experience! :)

(c) Rpstle

Regarding 201 dumps, we order a blank with a chip, write a current dump to magnitka, when you try to read information from the chip, the pic will give you the answer that the chip is damaged - it is impossible to count, then the cashier will roll it like a regular magnitka.

It also happens that when shopping requests to enter a pin, you can safely refuse to enter it, since the pin has the right to request only ATM.

Also, if you are not sure about the seller of dumps at 100%, I advise you to check cards before buying, some beans do die right away, but imho, it's better to let them issue a Hold/call than to get to the card withdrawal. Or, more simply, we are looking for beans that do not die immediately after the receipt. We look at the bin list at the dump seller, look for such cardboard, check it out and see how long they live.

And in general, before you do real, you need to be very very very familiar with all the nuances, do not spare the lava for samples, breakouts, etc. Since your safety will depend on how you approach this.

P. S. Continue to write a break-in, I will add it soon, I will describe the nuances in more detail...

(c) simptom
 
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